Velika Planina is a unique highland plateau located in the Kamnik-Savinja Alps of Slovenia. It is known for its stunning alpine scenery, traditional mountain huts, and rich cultural heritage. Velika Planina is situated about 25 kilometers northeast of the capital city of Ljubljana. The plateau covers an area of approximately 5 square kilometers and sits at an elevation of around 1,500 meters above sea level. The landscape is characterized by expansive meadows, gentle rolling hills, and scattered pine forests.
When the snow melts from Velika Planina, the crocuses emerge from their winter slumber and carpet the area in swathes of purple. If you’re lucky enough to be in Slovenia in early spring, I’d say Velika Planina is a must-visit. The bloom only last about two weeks, so it’s a really special thing to behold.
Is Velika Planina worth visiting?
Velika Planina is not only a place of natural beauty but also a living testament to the cultural heritage and traditions of the Slovenian Alps. It provides a unique opportunity for visitors to experience the alpine way of life and immerse themselves in the enchanting landscape of Slovenia.
One of the unique aspects of Velika Planina is its collection of traditional wooden huts called “koča.” These huts, built from logs and featuring distinctive conical roofs covered with wooden shingles, serve as summer settlements for local shepherds who bring their livestock to graze on the lush alpine meadows. Many of these huts are now open to tourists, offering them a glimpse into the traditional way of life in the region.
When do the crocuses bloom at Velika Planina?
Crocuses typically bloom in early spring, and their exact blooming will basically depend on when the snow melts at Velika Planina. They are likely to bloom sometime between late March and early May, with the exact timing varying from year to year. In 2023, they were blooming very late April and into early May. The crocuses only last a couple of weeks, so don’t hang around!
Getting to Velika Planina
Getting to Velika Planina from Ljubljana
To get from Ljubljana to Velika Planina, you can’t drive right up to Velika Planina, so you need to get yourself either to the cable car / gondola at Kamniška Bistrica, or to the start of a hiking trail. The closest place to hike from is Mackin Kot car par, from where it’s roughly 30-45 minutes to Velika Planina. You can drive the roads from Ljubljana and other surrounding towns.
There is also a bus from Ljubljana to Kamnik, and from there you can get a public bus or a taxi (€20) to the start of the cable car at kamniška Bistrica. It’s also possible to stay overnight at Velika Planina – check the accommodation section below.
Velika Planina Cable Car & chair lift
Velika Planina is accessible by a cable car that operates from the valley station in Kamniška Bistrica. The cable car provides a convenient and scenic way to reach the plateau. There are fantastic views of the surrounding mountains as you ascend.
Tickets for the cable car and chair lift currently cost €21 euros return, €14 euros one way.
Things to do at Velika Planina
Velika Planina is a popular destination for both nature lovers and outdoor enthusiasts. Visitors can enjoy hiking and trekking along the well-marked trails that crisscross the plateau. During the winter months, the area becomes a haven for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing. The picturesque landscape also provides numerous opportunities for photography and relaxation. Here is a list of things to do in while you’re here:
Visit the Preksar Museum Hut and Mary of the Snows Church
The Preksar Museum Hut offers visitors insights into the rich cultural heritage of the region, showcasing artifacts, tools, and exhibits related to the alpine way of life, particularly focusing on the history and practices of local shepherds. Nearby, the Mary of the Snows Church, also known as “Cerkev Marije Snežne,” is a quaint and culturally significant religious site that adds to the plateau’s charm. This wooden church, with its distinctive architecture and serene surroundings, provides a place of reflection.
Walk the learning trail
This trail is around 4 miles / 6.7 km long with 250m of elevation gain. It takes about 2 hours to complete and along the way are different information boards to help you learn about the history and cultural importance of the area. You can take detours while you are on the trail in order to see the museum and the church.
Try Trnič cheese.
Trnič cheese is a traditional Slovenian delicacy crafted in the Velika Planina region. Known for its distinct appearance, the cheese is shaped using a wooden mold called a “trn,” resulting in ornate ridges. Made from a blend of cow’s, goat’s, and sheep’s milk, Trnič cheese boasts a varied flavor profile, maturing over weeks to months. Beyond its culinary charm, Trnič cheese symbolizes cultural heritage, often associated with significant life events, and is lovingly preserved by local artisans. These will be being sold at the shepherds huts.
Take a (very cheap) guided tour
A guided tour is available on select dates in July and August. In 2023 this was only €8 including the tour guide, entry into the Preskar museum and dessert at the Zeleni rob restaurant. That’s amazing value. I think it will take in the learning trail, but you get to have a guide to ask questions of.
In winter try night sledding
When the area is covered in snow and night falls, you can hire sledges and use the chair lift over and over again to sledge down the hill!
Velika Planina Hikes
- Loop from Podstudenec. 6.14 miles, 260 m elevation
- Zeleni Rob loop from Podvolovljek. 6.62 miles, 480 m elevation
Velika Planina Accommodation
If you’d like the full Velika Planina experience, consider staying in a chalet while you’re here. These converted shepherd’s huts are modern and have beautiful views. They’re rather ‘cosy’ in size, but what they lack in floorspace they make up for in the presence of your very own sauna.
Koča Ojstrica, around €337 – €567 per night – a beautifully situated chalet with sauna. Can sleep up to 10 but living space may not comfortably fit 10.
Chalet Velika Planina . €181 – €371 per night. Newly renovated scandi style, with a sauna. Sleeps 6-8 including a sofa bed. The dining area will comfortably seat up to 6.
Irenca – I Feel Alps €243 – €309 per night – also with a sauna. Sleeps 4-6, with 4 spots in one bedroom and a foam sofa bed.
Chalet Resa, 160 – 200 per night. Not as modern and doesn’t have the sauna like the others, but a fair amount cheaper in high season. Similar sleeping arrangements as above.
If you plan to visit the Logar Valley, consider spending the night at the excellent Hotel Plesnik. The hotel is an hour drive from the cable car / gondola station. €200 + per night
Where to eat
Restaurant Zeleni Rob
Try traditional Slovenian dishes including a number of vegetarian stews at Zeleni Rob. Dishes are between €8-€15. You’ll be able to get a beer for €3.60
Sladki Kot
Try traditional sweet struklji or strudel from this takeaway counter. Go for the sweet flavoured ones. They also sell hot dogs and fries and little pancakes!
Things to do nearby
- The Logar Valley
- Kamniska Bistrica Springs
- Predaselj Gorge
- Radula Snow Cave
